Dr. Psyche A. Williams-Forson is a professor, speaker, scholar, and author of several books on African American food cultures and history.
Dr. Psyche A. Williams-Forbes
In 'Eating While Black: Food Shaming and Race in America' Williams-Forson observes that Black people's lives - including their food choices - are constantly being policed, surveilled, and vilified. She goes on to say that, "Somebody is always watching, waiting to tell Black people what they should and should not, can and cannot, eat."
According to the author, the custom of policing Black people's consumption comes from a broader history of trying to control Black lives from a position of white privilege and power. In current times, Black people are urged to 'eat healthy'......
.....which would (presumably) require limiting consumption of 'soul food' like fried chicken, candied yams, collard greens with pork, macaroni and cheese, spoonbread, chitlins, etc.
Food is central to everyone's culture, and operates on multiple levels beyond merely satisfying our stomachs. For instance, foods we're accustomed to are affiliated with our memories, and help us feel connected to our families and communities. Williams-Forson notes, "African Americans self-define and reinforce group identities through their expressive culture: food, clothing, dance, speech and language, games, and so forth." Asking Black people to change their eating habits is like "interrupting and disrupting [their] lifeways."
Moreover, the author observes that Black people are as varied in food practices as anyone else in America. They eat from fast-food chains, Whole Foods, farmers markets, their own gardens, the dollar store, supermarkets, etc. They eat fresh, frozen, and canned. They are carnivores, vegans pescatarians, and vegetarians.
So why are African-Americans criticized for their food choices?
In fact, Black people not alone in this. William-Forbes writes, "Almost all cultures of people experience food shaming as well as fat- and body image- shaming." In this book, though, the author concentrates on African American people. She notes, "From incendiary and denigrating images of African Americans with chicken and watermelon, to policies that suggest African Americans have the worst health records, to arguments that food is the culprit in our early deaths, racist ideas are continuously contrived in order to try to convince us and society at large of Black inferiority."
Williams-Forbes goes to say that fuller and rounder Black people's bodies are seen as evidence of laziness or slothfulness rather than as attractive and Rubenesque. As a consequence, African American women "are beset by the emotional, physiological, and political consequences of race and gender shaming. This shaming has tangible, even disastrous consequences."
The author asserts that all this stems from racism, be it conscious or unconscious. In addition, those who advocate 'eating healthy' (consuming more fruits and vegetables) don't take into consideration the fact that farmers' markets and well-supplied supermarkets are sometimes scarce in Black neighborhoods.
Williams-Forbes believes it's best if Black people are in charge of their own culinary lives, and other people - who know little about Black history and culture - should mind their own business. The author writes, "At the heart of much food shaming and attempts at regulating is a lack of awareness and understanding of cultural differences." Sadly, food shaming has practical consequences, as many African Americans avoid eating chicken and watermelon in public.
The author is generous with quotes and examples that illustrate her points, including observations from professors, scholars, social media, and journalists; scenes from books, movies, and TV shows; photos from library archives; her personal experiences; and so on. Pictures are included in the book, which illustrate some of Williams-Forbes arguments.
Michael Kenneth Williams as Chalky White and Jeffrey Wright as Valentin Narcisse in “Boardwalk Empire”
Though the author defends African American food habits, she does not mean to imply that 'eating healthy' is unimportant. Williams-Forbes writes, "Creating healthy bodies requires a redefinition of the food stories that define our cultures....Rather than urging people to change what they eat, a more effective approach may be to help communities incorporate healthier preparation techniques and ingredients into foods already rich in cultural meaning."
Williams-Forbes strays from the topic of food quite a bit, frequently addressing other aspects of Black oppression, such as the historic middle passage and hundreds of years of slavery; discrimination in housing, employment, and education; Black people being seen as criminals; African Americans being considered cheap and uncouth; discriminatory agricultural practices; violence against African Americans; and more.
Though these topics are interesting, their insertion makes the book choppy.
The narrative is interesting and informative, and there are extensive notes at the end, detailing the author's research. Recommended to readers interested in the subject.
Thanks to Netgalley, Psyche A. Williams-Forbes, and the University of North Carolina Press for a copy of the book.
Rating: 3.5 stars
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